Test and Reviews RC8 PRO TEAM
 

This is the review and building of a TEAM ASSOCIATED RC8 PRO TEAM with all pro's and con's found.

Tips and Tricks

We would like to gather all tips and tricks world wide from you as driver too, so they can be easily found at one spot.
 

The front and rear inner hinge pins are secured by a small screw.
In race conditions the hinge pin can go past the screw.
By adding a small thin washer the hinge pin is secured.
The shock absorbers are of high quality. They are factory build and when you take the spring of the shock you will see that the shock shaft has much rebound (half way travel). The rebound is caused by the air that is trapped behind the bladder. As this high volume shock with 4 mm shock shaft has much volume to be displaced when the shock shaft goes into the shock body this is the cause.

Solution is to drill a 1 mm hole in the standard aluminum top shock cap and adding a piece of foam behind the bladder to assure it returns in normal position when the shock shaft is pulled out fully.
If you feel comfortable by the way the shocks are from the factory, leave them stock.

Picture courtesy of AMAIN HOBBIES WWW.AMAIN HOBBIES.COM

Currently there are a few ways to build and use your RC8 shocks.

1] Standard as they come from the factory.
Result: Halfway rebound with progressive feel.

2] Standard as they come from the factory with a 1 mm hole drilled in the shock cap.
!Debur the inside of the shock cap 1 mm hole!
Bladder in original form. Piece of foam added behind bladder to assure it returns in correct position
Result: No rebound with linear feel.

3] Standard as they come from the factory with RTR molded shock caps with a 1 mm hole drilled in the shock cap.
!Debur the inside of the shock cap 1 mm hole!
Bladder in original form.
Result: No rebound with linear feel.

4] Standard as they come from the factory with RTR molded shock caps with a 2 mm hole drilled in the shock cap and hole in shock cap secured with 2.5 mm setscrew after filling and bleeding.
!Debur the inside of the shock cap 2 mm hole!
Bladder cut our in center.
Result: No rebound with linear feel.

Remarks from AE factory drivers Brent Thielke and Marshall Skare gathered;

By releasing the air pressure inside the shock cap, you're effectively dropping your "pack" of the entire shock. That's why you noticed the car feeling more plush through rough sections, but less "pop" off the jumps. To get the pop back, try smaller holed pistons, which will get the "pack" back, but keep your slow speed dampening (when turning, braking or accelerating) roughly the same.

I would describe the stock caps and building as a progressive feel.
When you drill the hole in the cap it takes some of the progressiveness out of the shock and when you use the RTR caps, pretty much all of the progressiveness is gone.

With a more "progressive" feel the car will have more "pop", but won't be as plush in the rough stuff.

Some factory team drivers are currently using the plastic shock caps from the RC8 RTR version with or without modification.
Partnumber of this 4 piece shock caps = ASC89262.
  

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