STORM PRO

This is the building process of a GS-Racing STORM PRO with all pro's and con's found.

!Click on the pictures to enlarge!

STEP 23

	For STEP 23 we need these parts.
	Take the carbon radio plate and first use some fine sanding paper to sand the edges inside and outside of this plate. Then apply on the edges of this plate a thin layer of Cyano Acrylic glue. This prevents carbon splinters to enter your fingers.
	Take a servo and place the rubber grommets in the mounting ears that come standard with the servo. Not using these grommets will cause all the vibrations of the car and engine go directly to the servo. This will cause premature servo failure.
	Fit the bronze bushings from the bottom in the grommets. The holes in the bushings depend of the servo brand. JR Propo and some Ko-Propo servos have holes with a 3 m/m diameter. Then you can use the original kit 3x12 m/m self tapping round head screws and the 3 m/m bronze bushings. In case of smaller holes of the bronze bushings much drivers omit the bushings and just use the standard 3 m/m kit screws.
	The plastic blocks that should accept the screws are only designed to accept 3 m/m screws (see the red lines). Some servos can then not be used with the bronze bushings because the holes do not accept 3 m/m screws. The original screws that come with the servo are mostly smaller and will not grip in the black plastic blocks as the holes are to withd. If the blocks had tapered holes (see the green lines) this problem would not occur and the original 3 m/m kit screws or the smaller screws that come standard with the servo can be used by changing the position of the  black plastic block.  Or just provide the blocks with smaller holes as standard. Cant be the extra cost when a molding is made.
	Why this fuzz about such a simple thing. Not all servo's are evenly large in size. When using smaller servo's then they need to be secured in the right place. When you do not use the bronze bushing and you only use the grommets you have to tighten the screws too hard to prevent the smaller servo from moving in the radio plate. Then the rubber grommets are of no use anymore! When you use the bronze bushings you can use smaller servo's and fix them on the spot they should be without the problem they will move in the squares of radio plate.  As the bronze bushing is the stop for the screw and prevents hard pressure on the grommet good but fixing on the radio plate then good vibration reduction is achieved.
	This picture shows that the servo is placed with the ears on top of the radio plate. The manual shows the servos mounted from the bottom up on the radio plate. This can only be done with a servo with reduced height. Most servo's we use for off-road are larger in height and need to be placed on top of the radio plate. Here the servo is fixed with grommets, bushings and the original screws and plastic kit blocks as this is an JR Pro-po servo that can be used with 3 m/m screws!
	This is how the blocks are mounted at the underside of the radio plate.
	But as I use servo with smaller holes in the bronze bushings (Hitec and FUtaba) I have an alternative. I made four small plastic parts and drilled 2 m/m size holes in them. They will replace the standard kit plastic blocks.
	Fit the servo with the original grommets and bronze bushings and use the screws that come with the servo. Also mount the transponder holder with 3x12 m/m self tapping round head screws.
	Also fit the other side of the servo with those custom made plates. It would be nice if factories supply these plates or the tapered ones with kits.
	Both servo's ready and fixed with the custom made plates.
	The radio plate seen from the top.

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