Hello racers,
This is a new review about the Hong Nor X1-CR Factory Team
Edition which is the follow up review from the X1-CR.
If you like you can first read the X1 review from last year.
I have upgraded my "old" car to the Factory Team
Edition and replaced most gears and universals and also all
plastic parts.
I have also installed all Hong Nor option parts for this new race
season.
What is different from the standard X1 ?????
New Big Bore shock absorbers.
New 5mm shock towers.
Alum lower B-block.
Captured hinge pin set.
Fiber brake disks.
Most of the new parts from the FTE were already on my last
year car and I can say that al these parts perform well.
Especially the new big bores that perform very well and leaking
oil is minimized so I did not have to re-fill the absorbers during a
race.
I have used the Glassfiber brake disk during my last race in Germany
Oberhausen.
They performed very well but the real test is coming this week at
the artificial grass with lots of grip I will tell you later how
they perform compared to the excellent working special pads and
bigger disk I normally use, these are described in the last year X1
review.
Further I have some nice new option parts.
I have weighted al
option parts, and will list them below so you can compare your selve.
Also new is the 3 chamber exhaust-pipe with EFRA nr 2047.
I have
already tested this pipe and I think it is comparable with the JP2
pipe I used.
Nice about this new pipe is the pressure nipple that is now more
at the inside so it doesn't damage your body anymore.
JP2 pipe with pressure nipple on top where for correct fitting of the body you had to cut a hole.
Have duty option parts for the CR and CRT
Steering slide bar
.
Front upper plate
The Alum rear up-rights fit perfect.
They also have 3 adjustment holes for better handeling and no
drilling is needed for the extra shock tower hole as the rear
upper arm can be made longer now.
( See the Hong Nor X1-CR conference at www.rc-racing.com.)
Below the new fiber brake disk which is installed now at the new
alum. center diff mount which I will test next week.
This piece of option part really looks a big improvement as you
can not brake during throttle use.
The brake cams are placed out of center and turn in the
bottom in rulon bushings and in the top on the standard flanged bearings.
The brake cams presses at the middle of the brake pad which
must result in better and consistend braking.
As I already told above I have weighted all special parts, I have
compared the alum center diff mount with the standard diff mount
with all screws that are neccessary to assemble into the car.
Alum center diff 64.3 gram std.70.3 gram
2X Cross Pin 1.7gram std. 4.8gram.
4XCenter diff post 9.0 gram std. 22.0 gram.
2X Brake joint 21.1 gram std. 22.3 gram.
2X Joint 19.2gram std. 21.2 gram.
5mm Front shock tower 25.0 gram. std. 20.6 gram.
5mm Rear shock tower 34.6 gram. std 32.7 gram.
Alum steering plate 10.8 gram. std 5.2 gram
Special Ackerman plate 7.9 gram. std 6.9 gram.
2X Alum rear up-rights 36.8 gram. std 21.0 gram
2X Universal front 47.2 gram. std. 53.7 gram.
2X Universal center 45.1 gram. std. 51.6 gram.
2X Universal rear 46.4 gram. std. 53.3 gram.
Chassis 259.3 gram. std. 287.5 gram.
I have also measured torsen diffs vs. standard diffs, when no
lightweight parts are used in the standard diffs a torsen is
about 2 grams lighter.
Diff weights are around 100 gram.
Next review I will tell you how the car performed at 4th
Brother-cup race.
I will test the option parts and let you know how they perform.
Good news, bad news.
The good news is about the new alum. center diff mount which performed very well.
As you already may have red at other sites, the brake throw can be lowered
with consisting brake result, which results in longer servo life time. Also
changing the diff is easier as the complete upper mount stays assembled when
taking the diff out.
Paco's tip!
Use the small brake return springs inbetween the brake pads (earlier X1-CR pro
kits) if you use the epoxy fiber brake disks. This makes mounting easier as as
the brake pads are always pushed open.
Do not use them when you mount the thin metal brake disks!
The new fiber brake disks did their job well, at the artificial grass you
really need al lot off brake.
When brake throw was set to high the car just turned over it front wheels.
During the hole race, ( 20 and 30 minutes finals) the brakes performed the same
as in the beginning during qualification.
Car performance was great but that's nothing new, during qualification I made
some changes to the chock absorbers which resulted in red spring, 400 oil in the
rear and yellow spring, 500 oil front.
The set-up I used is listed below.
I have also tested the new red shoes with 1.1 spring they worked well with
enough punch.
Race report. (bad news)
The weather conditions were different during the day for the fourth Dutch
Brother-Cup.( 21 may 2006)
It started with a wet
circuit, during the day the circuit became drier.
Just before the a-final a few drops came down so it was difficult to choose what
tires to use.
Lucky for me I decided to use the Ho Bao which perform very well at wet
artificial grass.
After 5 minutes it started to rain seriously.
I was in 3rd place with only 4
minutes to the finish when my car stopped.
The front wheels got stocked, all that was left was 8th place.
That's the third 8th place this year, first race a broken steering servo which
was my own fault. I made a steering fault at the straight and ran full speed
into the fence.
Second race a broken front turn buckle which was the first time I had to stop
during a final caused by a broken X1 part.
The third race was a good result in Oberhausen. (Germany 3rd place) Last race
again 8th place at my home circuit in Purmerend.
After
dissemble the front diff it was clear that the screws from the torsen became
loose what resulted in two broken screws and a diff that didn't want to go
forward or backwards.
It is a bit strange because before this race I had cleaned the diff and used
bleu lock-tide on the screws.
Next race I will check the torsen diff before the finals to see if the screws are
still tide.
Lucky for me, most of my competitors for the end result of the Dutch Brother-Cup
also have some bad results and as you may know this competition has 10 races
with only 8 results counting so everything is still possible.
FRONT:
MIDDLE:
REAR:
Camber: - 3 deg.
- 3 deg.
Toe
out 2 deg
in 3.5 deg
Anti squat 2 deg
Caster A/B: B
Diff Torsen STD (7,000) STD
(1,000 oil)
Springs: Red
Yellow
Space: 0
mm 5.mm
Tower: upper middle
lower middle
Arms:
inside
inside
Oil:
500 400
Pistons: 2 x 1.6
2 x 1.6
Stabilizer: 2.8 ( Self made) 2.8
Clutch: Shoed red high temp. 3 point with 1.1 springs.
Bell: 13
Tires: Ho Bao wet
cross dry
We have more for you!
Good race report this time, but first new option parts.
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Left the new developed and patented quick fill tank lid
opener. No more self-made openers needed, I have mounted one at my FTE and CRT and will ask my pitman if he likes it during the finals next race. Available in black bleu and red. |
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New screws to secure the bottom of the chocks which will prevent to wind themselves out. During practice at one of my first races with the X1, I once had this problem. I didn't give it much attention as a solution I made a flat spot on the screw and secured it with a small screw as it was done with al the kyosho´s I have had. But for those who wants to make it easy for them-selves these new screws are the solution and also CRT owners can use these screws as the CRT has no holes in the lower arms to secure these screws, so therefore these new left threaded screws.
|
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They can only be used at the left rear. |
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They are only be used at the right front. |
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Also new is the radio box battery cover, as you can see at the left picture the old LOW one. |
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As you can see the battery cover is a little
higher so there is more space for the high amp. batteries. You now can easily fit 5 AA cells in 4+1 configuration. This new radio box will soon be standard in all new produced FTE car kits. |
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When I received the new developed Big Bores last year,
they came with standard shock boots. For some reason I stayed with the standard chock boots and never tried the new developed type as seen on the picture which come standard with the CRT. During reading the HN news at Starting Grid I saw that many drivers were not satisfied and said they switched back to the old type shock boots. Therefore I decided to test these new "shock boot". The picture speaks for it self, use a normal shock boot when driving on sand and dusty circuits. Problem is caused as a shock always leak some oil that now is caught by the felt part. This will mix with the dust and then creates a sanding part to scratch the shock shaft and collecting more dirt. |
Race Report
After some disappointing races finally good results.
Second place in the A-main and TQ without practice, the car
performed great and no problems during this race.
I checked the torsen diff during the day and the screws stayed in
place.
The circuit was very bumpy as it was not prepared after the
last races.( Was already announced on the internet forum)
Lap times were 5 seconds lower than normally so you can imaging
what it looked like.
Searching for grip was not necessary but how to drive fast over
the holes and bumps would be the first priority.
Therefore I had already changed the set-up at home, higher ride
height and thinner sway bars and 4000 in the center diff, made the
car a little faster over the hole circuit. Below you see the set-up
I used.
I have also done a 3 hour endurance race at the same circuit
2 weeks later,
again not prepared.
Our team existed at 3 drivers with a Mugen, a Caster and off
course my Hong Nor X1-CR-FTE.
We didn't start very well and one of our team members had some
serious engine problems.
After a little more of 2 hours driving I had to drive again.
My other two team members thought I was doing well and asked me if
the battery would hold to the end.
So I had to drive almost an hour, I moved up from 5th to 3rd this
was the best could do.
This was the first time I had to drive for almost one hour but
the car did well and we had a lot off fun and that is were it is
al about you will have to agree that.
Next race will be at the totally different flat artificial grass circuit, hope that during my vacation I can find some time to practice and try to improve the set-up for better lap times
FRONT:
MIDDLE:
REAR:
Camber:
- 2 deg.
- 2 deg.
Toe
out 1deg
in 2.5 deg
Anti squat 1deg
Caster A/B: B
Diff
Torsen
STD
(4,000) STD
(2,000 oil)
Springs:
Yellow Yellow
Space:
3 mm 6
mm
Tower: upper
middle
lower
middle
Arms:
inside
inside
Oil:
500
400
Pistons:
2 x 1.6
2
x 1.6
Stabilizer:
2.0
2.3
Clutch:
Shoes white 3 point with 1.1 springs.
Bell:
13
Tires:
Turbo tires green
 |
Race Report Again not so lucky. But what do you think of this great painting work?
|
I think this is one of those years that can happen to anyone.
Again disappointing result caused by malfunction of my
transponder, it missed 5 laps. It would have been first place,
now a lucky 4th place because a lot of drivers had problems in
the rain.
It was probably caused by the radio tray made from carbon. The
AMB manual says not to place the transponder above carbon.
Last year I had mounted the transponder up side down below the
carbon radio tray.
This year I saw that some drivers had them above the carbon tray
without trouble, so I did the same, very easy because now you can
see the led burning when the receiver is on.
However hit value was low and after changing it back like I had
last year, hit value was normal compared to others.
So check and ask if your hit value is normal to prevent problems
like I had, remember it cost me first place.
Last race in Elmpt at a very very bumpy track one of my rear
shock absorbers was empty the seals came out.
At such a circuit you really need two absorbers to do the job.
When driving the A-final I wondered why I could not jump, after
the race it became clear.
I have red about this problem at starting grid I hope this was a
one time incident at my absorber I will keep you informed.
Performance during practice and qualifying was good 2nd Q and
first in the half final, so no complaining about performance.
When I was doing some maintenance after qualifying I noticed that
my steering servo was broken.
If I had noticed this during warming up before the half final, I
would only have a view minutes to change the servo and doubt if I
could have changed it in time.
I will ask the factory if changing a servo can be made better,
now you need to much time.
The last Brother-Cup race will be held in Purmerend, places 2
till 5 are still open so with a good result second place is
possible.
Factory news;
My pit man liked the new quick fill tank lid opener a
lot, he told me he would like one for himself and asked me were
he could buy one. As a thank you for pitting, I gave him my spare
one, he was very happy with it.
I liked the new battery cover and asked the factory if the receiver cover could be made the same so the servo wires have some more space and are not pushed against the cover.
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The new Front C-Hub performs well. It is difficult to say how much better it is without testing both at the same circuit and compare lap times. Most of the time you don't have time to do this all during a race weekend. |
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I have also tested the new hard silver aluminum shoes they
performed very well. No sharp edges like I had with the kyosho shoes that made the shoes kept hanging to the flywheel. (See Kyosho Kanai-2 review) I think you can use them two races and then needs to be replaced. The shoes you see on the left are used during my half final and A-final, 20 and 45 minutes. The composite shoes will have some more lifetime but the alloy shoes will give you more punch when you need it.
|
I have heard that new option parts like front and rear lower
arms, new arm holders, C-hub, new front top arms ...ect are in
development for next year.
So we will have to wait till these parts are available.
Remember it is in development so it is not possible to say what
and when it will be available.
FRONT:
MIDDLE:
REAR:
Camber:
- 1deg.
- 2 deg.
Toe
out 1deg
in 2.5 deg
Anti squat
2deg
Caster A/B:
B
Diff
Torsen
STD (4,000)
STD (2,000 oil)
Springs:
Mugen gray
Mugen gray
Space:
5mm
9 mm
Tower:
upper middle
upper middle
Arms:
inside
inside
Oil:
550
450
Pistons:
2 x 1.6
2 x 1.6
Stabilizer:
2.0
2.3
Clutch:
Alloy Shoes 3 point with 1.1 springs.
Bell:
13
Tires:
Hong Nor grass Snakes
Race
Report
This year overall third place not so bad as I have never been out in
so many finals as this year.
The last race again a broken servo in the half final.
I must confess that the 2 times my steering servo broke during a final, was
caused by tightening my servo sever to fast.
None of my bad results were caused by broken parts of the X1-CR
Factory news
As I write this review I am already thinking of next year.
I have already start to make a new Brother-Cup calendar which will have 8 races
in 2007.
So, what is new so far which I can try next season in 2007
There is a new developed servo saver which makes it easier to adjust the servo
saver spring by hand.
Also there can be no dirt between chassis and tension screw so it can be
thightend or loosend by itselve.
Click on the servo saver picture for a larger actual version.
As you can see in the picture only the plastic is new and the spring..
This is nice because this option will not be expensive.
I (Paco Raap) have revised the old style to the new style already!
Major problem was to put the new stronger spring with the nut on the thread.
Finding the beginning of the thread and turning it a full turn so it will catch
the thread was a 30 minutes struggle. :-(
That is why I like the factory pre build servo savers. :-)
Also new is the 2 piece engine mount which makes it easy to take the engine
from the chassis and when placed back no adjustment is needed.
Very easy for replacement ball bearings during finals.
Other news, below you see the new developed pivot ball suspension that was
initialy developed for the Hong Nor 1:8 scale on-road car DM-1
Now there is a special option PBS package available for the X1 too.
I will try to find out if there are more parts that are under development or if
there are more option parts coming for 2007.
I think you have to try this option and see if you
like it. I have never had a car with pivot ball suspension so I can't tell the
con's and pro's.
When possible, I will test it in 2007 Brother cup, I will tell you my
experiences in TWF8 review X1-CR 2007.
| The manual that comes with the PBS kit is nice and if
you follow the text and drawings it is no problem. See our remarks below for more details |
|
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The pivot ball from the PBS kit is a two piece design. The ball is screwed on the screw. |
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The rubber dust proction boot looks nice and is originally working
on the DM-1 car is comes from. We advise it not to mount. |
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The aluminium screws to hold the pivot balls. The first few turns inward with the supplied heaxgon tool will be very easy and large steps. As soon as you start to feel high resistance you really have to use more force to turn the screw inwards bit by bit. Keep constantly checking if the play of the pivot ball is gone. Always allow some play and check regurlarly during race days. |
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We did not mount the rubber dust boot as it took away some steering angle. |
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With the caster clips you can adjust the caster of the steering easily. |
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Also for the aluminium screws there are small dust covers. Here you can see only the top one mounted. |
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One side front view. |
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Maximum steering right |
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Maximum steering left |
| We did not drove this PBS set up, but from the angle it can make in dry condition is looks as it will give more steering angle and so also on power steering. | |
Latest news is a new high down force wing, it will increase low and high
speed rear traction.
I hope these wings are as durable as the old wing which I think was very good.
When there is more factory news I will let you know in the new X1-CR FTE 2007
review.
Below you find the set-up I used at the artificial grass from last race at
Purmerend.
Keep in mind set-ups are personal.
FRONT:
MIDDLE:
REAR:
Camber: - 2 deg.
- 2 deg.
Toe out 1deg in 2.5 deg
Anti squat
3deg
Caster A/B: B
Diff
Torsen
STD
(7,000) STD
(2,000 oil)
Springs:
HN red
HN red
Space:
0 mm 4
mm
Tower: upper
middle
upper
middle
Arms: inside inside
Oil:
550 450
Pistons: 2 x 1.6
2
x 1.6
Stabilizer: 2.0
2.3
Clutch: Alloy Shoes 3 point with 1.1 springs.
Bell: 13
Tires:
Ho Bao mini pins cross
If you have any news or question about the X1-CR FTE please
feel free to contact me.
jacco.koch@albemarle.com
Grtzzzzzz Jacco