Test and Reviews

X1-CR FTE

Review Hong Nor X1-CR FTE 2007

Also this year Hong Nor is providing TEAM TWF8 the latest option and spare parts for testing en review and driven by Jacco Koch.
Therefore I would like to thank David Wu for this great support.

This is already the third year that I will race this 1:8 buggy.
So far I think this is an excellent buggy, it has a very good performance and its durability is OK.
The price option ratio is better then most other well known 1:8 buggy's.

Lets start reviewing.
First I would like to tell about my experiences that I have with the Pivot Ball System so far.
It is very easy to make set-up changes like camber and caster.
One small minor point is that the upper arm is mounted with C-clip shaft to the front tower.
I think that if you are used to the special arm shafts these C-clips are a bit disappointing and hard to assemble.
Maybe in the future it comes with special shafts, I will ask if this is possible.

After my first race in the sand steering didn't go as smooth as in the beginning.
I have removed the big hex screw and used some air to blow away dust between the ball and the pivot.

I sprayed a little silicone oil at the balls and after putting back the hex screw, steering smoothness was acceptable.
Also the standard C-hubs do not always move smooth after driving at a very dusty circuit then it needs some cleaning too.

At the high grip artificial grass I could not find much difference between the two different front suspensions.
Last race at a very bumpy low grip circuit the car performed well although it is hard to say which of the suspensions is better as this circuit had a new layout. I can not compare with other lap times but I qualified second place so the performance must be good. During my first race with the PBS one of the universals got out of the diff joint, I could not find anything broken and after putting it back it has not occurred any more. Maybe a big hit and the flex made it possible.
I think performance is very personal, some like the C-hub and others like PBS so far I can not decide which I prefer.
For the time being I will use the PBS and see what I like most.

	I have had some mail about the new spoiler some drivers had problems with the durability. However mine is still in good shape after 2 races and some practice as you can see at the picture. I will use this spoiler the next view races and see how long it will keep the right shape and if the plastic won't break,
	I have also made some modifications myself like the battery box with antenna. I use a spectrum receiver with a very short antenna with this modification the antenna will stay under the body and will not break or get lost anymore.
	In this picture you can see a small hex screw which is made into the rear hinge pin holder, just drill a 3.2mm hole and make 4 mm threat in it. This will prevent the shaft moving into the hinge pin holder, now only the plastic arm will have wear. Next time when I dissemble my front suspension I will make the same modification to the front hinge pin holder.
	In this picture you see the special exhaust holder. I can tell, that with all the inline exhaust pipes now a days it is recommended to use one, my JP 3 pipe broke at the point were it is fitted at the hexa screw. Without this special holder there is just not enough flex. If you still have an old pipe with silicone tube connection, the standard holder will do.

 Race Report

2 races have past now, results are not so good as I had hoped for. First race al lot of engine problems at Sunday while the engine worked well on the day before (weather conditions?)
Looked as the engine had lost it's power. After a very good start in the final and 10 minutes at third place I move back to seventh position.

Last Race performance and engine were OK. I qualified second place at a circuit that was totally new.
It was a great circuit with high jumps made from artificial grass, and very bumpy sections in sand.
I could only practice 5 minutes before qualification. I qualified second place which is pretty good I think.
All went well, till warming-up for the half final. My engine flamed out and while my pit man wanted to restart the engine,
I saw that my air filter was in the front of my car, Yes you are right stupid, maybe I had not tight it enough to the carburator and did it come of during a landing on its nose after one of the big jumps.

I didn't want to restart the engine and stopped before the final had started.
After cleaning my engine the next day damage was not that bad but I have to drive this engine first and see if performance is still good.

Below you find the set-up I used at this very bumpy circuit with high jumps.
Keep in mind set-ups are personal.

                            FRONT:                MIDDLE:                REAR:
Camber:               -  2 deg.                                                  - 2 deg. 
Toe                      out 1deg                                                 in 2.5 deg
Anti squat             1deg
PBS:                    26°
Diff                      STD (4000)           STD (5,000)            STD (1,000 oil)
Springs:                Mugen Gray                                          Mugen Gray
Space:                 6 mm                                                      7 mm
Tower:                 upper  middle                                          upper  inner
Arms:                   outside                                                    outside                    
Oil:                       450                                                        350
Pistons:                 2 x 1.6                                                   2 x 1.6
Stabilizer:              2.0                                2.3
Clutch:                  Alloy Shoes 3 point with 1.1 springs.
Bell:                      13
Tires:                     Allegi Green Turbo

First I would like to tell about the new option towers but first a little history about the towers.
The towers that came with the first X1-CR were 4 mm thick.
Later 5mm towers came as an option part, holes were a little different, these 5mm towers are now standard in the FTE kit.
I am impressed about the durability because I have never bend or broken one of these 5 mm towers.

	As you may know a lot of drivers made the 7th hole at the rear 5mm tower, this extra set-up made the car easier to handle. If you want to know more about the 7th hole read the forum at starting grid 2006 Off-road Nitro Conference. (Jammin) Off course not everybody is capable to make the 7th hole himself. Therefore new towers are available, holes are at the same position as the standard 5 mm towers only more adjustment possibilities. New is the 7th hole position at the rear tower. As you can see in the picture I use the 7th hole too.
	When you want to use the 7th hole position you need to remove some material from the diff-case. This new rear tower gives you even the possibility to move one hole up or down at the 7th hole inner position, when you want to use the lowest inner hole you also have to remove some plastic from the upper link. When material is removed from only the diff-case, you can see the diff-case screw, to much material has been removed.
	Left you see the new lightweight 48T main gear. It has less rotating mass this will reduce the revolving mass of the center diff. When I have used this option part I will keep you informed about its performance and durability.
	When I assembled my X1-CRT last winter I noticed that the front hing pin (rear also) holder was the same as in the one in the CR, only difference was thickness instead of 3mm. 4mm I had to change the standard holder (only front) more often than other parts due to a lot of wear. So why not take one CRT 4mm holder and make it fit to the CR?
	The square hole in the CR chassis is 3 mm so some material has to be removed from the hing pin holder as you can see in the picture. It fits perfect and with the hexa-screw made in the rear holder, the hing pin can not move into the hing pin holders any more. I will keep you informed how long this modified 4mm holder will stand without wear.

Race Report

Last Brother-Cup race was held in Oberhausen (Germany)
When I arrived Saturday afternoon, It seemed that I could only practice 1 time for 8 minutes and I had 15 minutes left for preparing my car.
The reason for this was a practice time table made because of the 110 drivers in the 2 classes  that would take place this weekend. (50 drivers in the Brother-cup)

The circuit had a total new lay out and with the 8 minutes that were left I could only make some laps to see how to drive this circuit. I even drove the wrong way for a moment, my pitman had a lot of fun when he saw this and he reminded my this the whole evening.
Sunday after the first series I was second qualifier and it stayed that way, so why practice? It seems to be that my best qualifying are without practice.

The half final went well no problems at all, although I was a little worried about the engine, yes the same engine that I used the race before it performed still very good. I did buy a new engine (R&B C6 BB-T7 see picture) but I did not have time enough to break it in and I wanted no hurry break in with this engine. I will let you know how this engine performs the next race reports.

The a main did not start very well 9th place after 1 lap but during the race I moved up to 3rd place and finished at this position.

Next race will take place at a new place and new circuit there is no practice on Saturday due to a bicycle race that day.
Some drivers didn't like that but others do because they can never practice on Saturdays (to busy or work)
Must be good for me also if you see my results without practice.

Below you find the set-up I used at this very dusty bumpy circuit with 1 very high jump.
Keep in mind set-ups are personal.

                            FRONT:                MIDDLE:                REAR:
Camber:               -  2 deg.                                                  - 2 deg. 
Toe                      out 1deg                                                 in 2.5 deg
Anti squat             1deg
PBS:                    26°
Diff                      STD (5000)           STD (7,000)            STD (1,000 oil)
Springs:                Mugen Gray                                          Mugen Gray
Space:                 7 mm                                                      6 mm
Tower:                 upper  middle                                          upper  inner
Arms:                   outside                                                   outside                    
Oil:                       500                                                        350
Pistons:                 2 x 1.6                                                   2 x 1.6
Stabilizer:              2.3                                                         2.8
Clutch:                  Alloy Shoes 3 point with 1.1 springs.
Bell:                      13
Tires:                     Medial Pro Adheris II

At the start of this season Jacco has got a new team driver with him.
No not one with much experience but a better approach to test durability as with a newbie.
His name is Robin Blikkenhorst and with 8 years old he has much to learn but is eager to do his upper best.

But children learn faster as older people, so the future will proof this is correct.
Sofar Robin ran three races and in all those three races he took home the trophy for best new comer.
And he is proud on these thropies as Jacco confirmed.

Robin will run 2007 with this set up

More about the testing soon

Hello Drivers,

Our race season is now halfway and after 8 races the only trouble I have had was my air filter in Brother-Cup race #2.
The car it self gave no problems at all and every race gave a top 3 qualifying and top 5 during the A main.
This is a very good result as there are more new coming competitor drivers during the last view years.

The last race was a 3 hours endurance race which exists of 2 times 1.5 hours.
The two results are add up, the reason for 2 x 1.5 hours is simple, this race is just for fun and there are teams with not much experience.
With one hour between the race they can fix their cars or do some maintenance and participate the last part.

This year there were 13 teams with some really good drivers from Germany.
My team mates own a XB8 and the other a Sino.
As you may know there is always one car at the circuit while the others can do some maintenance.
13 cars at the circuit, the pit lane was full with 13 pitman and 13 cars and drivers ready for taking over.

Both my team mates had a lot of trouble and when the first halve was done I had driven my X1 for almost 1 hour.
After checking my car and replacing my bell bearings we started for the next 1.5 hour.
We agreed that both my team mates would drive most of the last part but after 20 minutes it was clear that things didn't go as we planned.
Both my team mates were out and after I had driven for another 20 minutes we decided to change only drivers and end the race with my car.

It was great to see how my team mates picked up my X1 and drove it as it was there own.
We changed the battery and air filter during a pit stop, and finished the race at 4th place which I think was a very good result if you keep in mind that we lost a lot of time due to the problems.
When the race was done my car felled very smooth and the engine ran like it was just started.
So well done X1  "Team Amsterdam"

This race report brings me to another item which could be useful for any of you.
Sometimes we test new products which are supplied by the manufacturer.
In the beginning of our race season I got a tube of Eureka Pro lube this lube was especially developed for RC cars and can be used at all rotating parts like gears, joints and universals.

In the picture Eureka Pro lubricant. I promised to keep you informed about the wing durability, still the same wing and in good shape.

I was a bit sceptic as lubes attracts sand and in my opinion it is better when no lube is used.
But the manual was clear and promised no sticking of sand and excellent lubrication.
After I had used Eureka there was still some sand at the parts that were lubricated with Eureka but the car did run very smooth.

After just one race I could not see if wear was less, so I decided to test Eureka Pro for a longer period.
Now after 5 races and some practice it is clear that using Eureka Pro has benefits, the car runs smooth after a race day (even after 2 hours endurance) and wear is less.
I only lubricated the car during maintenance at home don't use to much as it will not stay at the rotating parts due to rotation force. I don't add more Eureka during a race day.
Conclusion: it runs smoother with Eureka and wear is less but you have to except the little sand.

One other tip for use is the clutch bell bearing, I always change clutch bell bearings before the finals, after the final is done I always check the bearing and sometimes it does not feel good.
I had read at starting grid that some top drivers used some special lubricate for the bell bearings so I tried Eureka Pro at my bell bearings and I must say it worked very well.
Just remove the seal and add a little Eureka Pro at the bearing, replace the seal, don't use to much this will have no better effect and will leave the bearing immediately.
After the final the clutch bell bearing still runs smooth and after lubricating again ready to use once more.

New Hong Nor products

In the picture the new Hong Nor 2062 in-line pipe. I have tested this new pipe with my new R&B C6 and it performed very well. Enough punch and plenty high speed RPM. It's durability is OK due to the extra strong end pipe which can not bent easy as it is hit by another car also the pressure nipple is at the right place.

It is nice to see how Hong Nor listens to their drivers, we had a small comment a while back about the truggy, when the special stone guard was assembled it was not possible to access the hexagone screw. With the buggy you needed a long 2 mm tool to reach it easily or had to fumble with the L-shape 2 mm hexagon tool. Therefore we asked if it was possible to make the new to be developed pipes with the hexagone screw at the left side so access was no problem any more and so they did. Thanks David! As you can see in the picture also very easy access for the buggy too. And with the flex wire no more broken muffler tips ant more. I think that all new manufactured pipes will come with the hexagone screw at this place very soon.

How much is light weight???

Here is an issue that keeps coming back every time, Light weight parts.
The latest new light part was 48 tooth main gear.
When new light weight parts are released there is often no weight difference published, so you can not actually see what difference weight is compared to the standard part.

Therefore I have weight all option and standard parts and listed the results at the review 2006, I have listed the parts once again and added the new spur. If you like to know more weights from Hong Nor X1-CR parts and you are not able to measure them your self, give me a mail and I will see if I can be of any help.

Alum center diff 64.3 gram std.70.3 gram 2X Cross Pin 1.7gram std. 4.8gram. 4XCenter diff post 9.0 gram std. 22.0 gram. 2X Brake joint 21.1 gram std. 22.3 gram. 2X Joint 19.2gram std. 21.2 gram. 5mm Front shock tower 25.0 gram. std. 4mm 20.6 gram. 5mm Rear shock tower 34.6 gram. std. 4mm 32.7 gram. Alum steering plate 10.8 gram. std 5.2 gram Special Ackerman plate 7.9 gram. std 6.9 gram. 2X Alum rear up-rights 36.8 gram. std 21.0 gram 2X Universal front 47.2 gram. std. 53.7 gram. 2X Universal center 45.1 gram. std. 51.6 gram. 2X Universal rear 46.4 gram. std. 53.3 gram. Chassis 259.3 gram. std. 287.5 gram. Main gear 24.6 gram. std. 31.9 gram I have also measured torsen diffs vs. standard diffs, when no lightweight parts are used in the standard diffs a torsen is about 2 grams lighter. Diff weights are around 100 gram.

Remember that rotating light weight parts improves steering and handling of your car more than other light weight parts and so they are more important than other light weight parts. Tip!!! Don't spent lots of money to non rotating light weight parts and than use a heavy weight battery pack!

Next Brother-Cup race starts in September so I am going to use some free Sundays for practice and see if I can find some tenth of seconds. Half August a truggy race which I will participate. When I have time enough I will write a small review about this truggy race and the set-up I am going to use.

Factory News

New Hong Nor Super Bore Shock absorbers, 16mm inside.

Just in time before the 7th Brother-Cup I received the new developed Super Bore 16mm Shock absorbers.
I had already heard of the success that team drivers had when they developed these new shocks .

This is what Gary Guest team driver wrote about the new BB

What I have noticed with the SUPER BORE shocks is the car is more
forgiving. There are times that you might land short, or be crossed up
through bumps, or be full wood through a rough corner and you get
through it without wrecking or going up-side down. Instantly I
think "with the 13mm shocks I would not have made through that".
Also the car seems to be more free, a looser feel, in the corners allowing
for more corners speed. 

The quality and ease of building on the new shocks is awesome!!!
I have run the bladders since the buggy nationals without one single
failure or collapse!!

With this information I could hardly wait to test these shocks.
First I had to assemble the new shocks, OK what is different from the old BB the size 16mm inside but that is no news.
The O-rings are not secured by a C-clip, a cap with threat is holding the O-rings in place.
Use some Shock Snot from GMK Supply to grease the O-rings while mounting them.

The shock ends have a locking notch that will prevent the spring retainer spinning when adjusting the preload nut.
I have one small comment about the manual, it was not mentioned what shock end to use.
When using the large shock end ( most of the time for Truggy) you can follow the instruction manual.
However when using the small shock end (buggy) it is not possible to follow the instruction.
When you try to screw the shock end at the recommended 28.5mm front or 37.5mm rear you will turn it in to far as there is not enough room into the shock end.
I recommend to use 31mm front and 40mm rear then it will fit perfectly and the top of the shaft won't touch the bladder when the shock is assembled with shock boot and spring retainer.
Since there is a larger amount of oil volume in the new shocks, the shocks will have less rebound than the older shocks when you bleed the shocks correctly.
Less pressure build up when the shaft is pushed into the body.

When ordering the shocks keep in mind that it comes without springs you will have to order them separately.
For what I know there are separate springs for buggy and truggy this time.
Soft, medium and hard for buggy, (Yellow, white and silver) and grey and bleu for truggy. (I think)
I have only received the white and silver springs the other types were not available at that moment. When I have all sets complete I will ask Paco for the spring rate tester for comparison with other type of springs.

The shock set comes with extended standoffs that will prevent touching the shock to the front upper arm or/and shock towers.
Almost forgot to tell you that the pistons have 6 x 1.4mm holes also available as an option part are pistons with 6 x 1,2mm.
These 1.2 mm are there for redrilling in your own size.
Do not use them as the come from the factory.
The next option for drilling is 6 x 1.35 mm.
6 x 1.30 mm will give to much pack!
Drillbits in 0.5 mm increments can be purchased at GMK Supply

Also beware that ambient temperature can influence these shocks more then with previous smaller bore shocks.

If you like to know what parts are the same as the 13 mm Big Bore I have made a list below.
1. shock shaft (front and rear)
2. O-rings (the plastic rings are different)
3. shock ends and ball (however, they have been updated with a locking notch)
4. Upper bushing

What everybody wants to know how do they perform???????

This race was excellent for testing these new shocks, really rough circuit and some very high jumps were the car fly's several meters above the ground. I started with 500 front and 400 rear and white springs. I could only test Sunday morning before the race and after some practice I decided to start qualifying with this set up.
The first session went great no mistakes and I thought I had made a super qualifying.
Very disappointing when I saw  there were 3 man before me and after the first qualifying was done I ended at ninth position.

Then when I took a look at my lap times I saw what happened 6 laps with 42 seconds and one lap 1:24.
Yes, for some reason my transponder missed 1 lap I would have been TQ and the only one with 8 laps for this day.
I was very disappointed but your personal transponder is your own responsibility.
My second best qualifying was good enough for 3 qualifier.
I have tested other oil during qualifying but decided to start the half final with the oil I started with in the first place.

During the half final I took first place but after 10 minutes my engine flamed out.
My pitman did not have much experience I had to come down start my engine and had to adjust idle it took me almost two minutes and even then I almost made it to the final, but it was not enough.

What do I know, the new BB perform great and what Gary said was true and with some more practice there is more to find for even  abetter performance.
There is one thing to tell, the absorbers did not leak any oil refill for next race is absolutely not necessary. (great job)

Hope you will enjoy driving your HN like I do, when surfing on the net I found one picture of last race which shows how cars can fly. Look at my Super Bores.

Final Resume

Last race was held at my home circuit with artificial grass, the situation was that first place was already known but second and third place were still open.
I needed a very good result and all my competitors for second place did have to end behind me.

Saturday at practice I started with 600 front and 500 rear but is was to hard after changing the oil to 500 / 400 the car felt much better. The middle diff was torsen but it made the car very nervous so standard 7000 diff, again much better.
The cars set-up was good and so I was ready for the race tomorrow, I only decided to ride some more tanks and get used to the set-up and circuit.
But during these last view tanks I heard some little noise in the engine but my new R&B C6  was only 6 litres old so I thought it would hold longer. 

First qualification went great 3Q but than one of my friends came to me and asked me what was wrong with my engine, we discussed and came to the conclusion that the bearing was not so good anymore.
I doubt if I should change it but when the next driver came and also asked what was wrong because he heard some noise I decided to take no risk before the engine was total loss and changed it for an old WS7 III that I had for spare.
So engine changed, no time to set the carburator and next qualifying, engine flamed out but one of my friends did set the needles right so next qualifying I hoped for better result.
A lot of friends offered me there spare engine but I said to would wait and see how 3rd qualifying would be.
Third Qualifying went well the engine, though it was old, did do good enough and therefore I decided not to change the engine.

Half final went very well second place but what me wondered most was the old engine that performed so good even after it was warm no performance lost was noticed. I wondered why I did not use this engine anymore????????????????

Than the final began and I must say I was pretty nervous, start was very good.
After a very exciting race with many changes in position due to pit stops I ended the race at second place only with some seconds difference from first place. I could have pushed some more but the driver in first place was not in competition for a good final result and  therefore I decided to take this second place and become second overall Dutch Brother-Cup.

Below you find the set-up I used.
The new Big Bores were very consistent I must say that I have never driven such a good race at the artificial grass.

                         FRONT:                MIDDLE:                   REAR:
Camber:               -  2 deg.                                                  - 2 deg. 
Toe                      out 1deg                                                 in 2.5 deg
B-Block
Anti squat                                                                          2.5 deg
Diff                      Torsen                   STD (7,000)            STD (2,000 oil)
Springs:               White                                                     White
Space:                 5 mm                                                      7 mm
Tower:                 upper  middle  inner                                upper  middle inner
Arms:                   inside                                                      inside                    
Oil:                       500                                                        400
Pistons:                 4 x 1.4                                                   4 x 1.4
Stabilizer:              2.3                                                         2.5
Clutch:                  Alloy Shoes 3 point with 1.1 springs.
Bell:                      13
Tires:                     Ho Boa mini pins

Race season is over now and I heard there will be no new buggy coming before the next 2008 WC
So until that time I will have to do with the old car, what is needed to race another year with this car.

Upper and lower arms have play so they need replacement but due to the modifications I made to the hing pin holders, there is no need to replace all other suspension parts like hing pins and holders.

Rear diff

The rear light weight universals are 2 years old  and are not good enough for competition, the rear diff joints are also a little worned out so these parts also need replacement.(see picture)
All other universal are replaced in the beginning of the season (front) or during the season.(midd)
The are still in acceptable shape thanks to the Eureka Pro lubricant which I use now almost since the beginning of this season.

Like most drivers I drive other set-ups at different circuits and most off the time I just change total diff and gears and or brakes
Therefore most diff gear and brakes are still in good shape after a race season. Like I described above only rear diff (which I never change) is ready for replacement.

The wing is still in one piece but a little bend here and there so new wing for next year.
There is no need to say that the Hong Nor is a good car this has been proven enough during the 3 year I drive this car.
This year only my engine gave troubles so I am thinking of getting back to my good old WS7 III engines and see if next year I can do better and become National Brother-Cup champion again.

I hope that the new in development 2008 car has some changes that I have proposed.
Most of these Proposals are of ergonomic value but that is also important for a good car, I have listed my ideas once more to fresh your memory.

Modified hing pin holder
New receiver compartment like the battery for more servo wire space
Larger 36 mm front brake disc
Quick servo change system with easy wire access

Factory news

New light weight extended standoffs for the new BB 16 mm. (sorry no picture yet)
As soon as I have them I will add it to my light weight list for weight comparison.

The soft yellow spring is also available now and for those who are interested in Truggy, new BB 16 mm springs are in the shops now.
Gray soft and Bleu hard.
The gray soft is harder than the buggy silver hard spring!

Front springs Super Bore 16 mm

Front springs Super Bore 16 mm

Since September 2007 the X1-CR is updated and is called the X1X-CR.
Standard you now get as (X)tra

* 16 mm super bore shocks
* Spiral cut gears (FTE version only)
* High Downforce wing
* Top loading Servo Saver

A general set up by Chad Bradley for the X1X-CR FTE

12/07 Buggy Setup (16mm shocks)

Track.....Revalation

Traction..Med-Loose Conditions

Surface...Smooth to Light rolling rutts

Temp......Very Cold 40-50F (club racing is ran at night)

Tires.....M3 Hole Shots

Engine....OS Speed

Pipe......OS 2050 or 2060 (2050 has a little more power)(the 2060 is 

smoother), not a huge difference between the 2

Clutch....3 shoe Jammin Silver Alum. 1.0 springs

Gearing...13/48

Wing......Standard down force Pro-line

Rims......Pro-line dish

Front

Spring..............Silver

Piston..............1.35 (drilled) 6 hole

Oil.................*22.5 Losi oil

Shock end...........Short

Shock Pos...........Inner hole on arm, upper mid on tower

Down Travel.........27mm (measured with Jammin wheel below chassis)

Front Kick..........*A block (upper and lower)

Camber pos..........mid hole on tower

Camber..............-2

Sway Bar............*2mm, 0mm preload

Ride hight..........Arms level

Ackerman............middle hole

Toe out.............1 degree

Brace...............Aluminum

Top Plate...........Graphite

Diff................5000

Center

Diff................7000

Brakes..............Stock, Fiberglas

Z brace.............yes

Rear

Spring..............Silver

Piston..............1.35 (drilled) 6 hole

Oil.................*17.5 Losi oil

Shock end...........Long

Shock Pos...........Inner hole on arm, upper mid on tower

Down Travel.........21mm (Jammin wheel)

Ride height..........27mm or arms very slightly above level

Anti squat...........stock, 2.5

Camber pos..........*mid hole on alum hub, 7th hole on tower

Camber..............3 degree

Toe in..............3 degree

Hub Pos.............Lower hinge pin hole

Wheel Base..........*Hub spaced toward the Front (short car)

Sway Bar............*2.3, 5mm preload

Brace...............Aluminum

Diff................3000

*Note* These settings are done specifically for Revalation Track

1. Very light shock oil is used due to cold temp, I'll use heavier 

fluid during the day

2. I normally like thick sway bars, however this track is very loose so 

i use thinner bars to make the car more aggressive

3. Wheel Base, Normally my rear hubs are spaced back (long), I get 

more forward traction if I move the hubs forward (short car) for this 

track.

4. Rear camber position on hub is a little longer than what I normally 

use (middle hole), this is to get side traction. Normally I am in the 

hole furthest from the wheel to get steering (3rd hole, short link).

5. A block is used (more front kick than the stock B) for more 

consistent jumping, bumps, smoother steering. B block has more steering

Option parts used

1. *Aluminum upper and lower A block (lower B in X1X kit)

2. *Aluminum Braces F/R, Z brace (in X1X kit)

3. Diff pinion and conical option (in X1X kit)

4. Proto plastic center diff mount (coming soon)

5. *Aluminum rear hubs

6. Light out drives (F/C/R)

7. Light axles (F/R)

8. HoBao center alum. dog bones and drive cups for F/R

9. Light Spur gear

10. servo saver assembly (not sure in X1X kit, eventually)

11. Lunsford TiRods (X1X kit)

*= options I really recommend, the other stuff doesn't make a huge 

difference in handling.

Stock parts used to make the car lighter

1. 3mm ackerman rack

2. graphite top plate above steering assembly

3. plastic radio posts

4. plastic wing mount post

5. Version 1 engine mount, not 1 piece (11-15g lighter than option)

 At the end of this 2007 review
 I would like to thank David Wu for his excellent service and support
 during our 2007 Dutch Brother-Cup competition for TEAM TWF8

 If you have any question please feel free to contact me at the mail adress below

 jacco@brothercup.com

                                         Grtzzzzzz Jacco