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Test and Reviews |  |
X1-CR |
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Test and Reviews | |
X1-CR |
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The Performance
How to read performance results
During season 2005 TEAM TWF8 test driver Jacco Koch from The Netherlands will provide us with information about performance of the car and engine.
Please let me introduce myself.
I am Jacco Koch 45 years and live in Amsterdam which is in Holland.
RC models has always been a great hobby of mine, I started with airplane
models and powerboats but the last twelve years my biggest interest is nitro
powered 1:8 off-road 4wd.
In 1992 I became Dutch champion in the B-class (starters-class)
Now a days we have the Brother-cup ( Dutch championship ) my best result is the
over all first place from last year.
My first car was a Kyosho Inferno with a Rex 3 port engine
after 2 years I had the car upgraded to a Turbo Inferno.
Than their was the Kyosho MP 5 the MP 6 the MP7.5 and the last 2 years the
Kyosho MP 7.5 Kanai 2 and for this year the Hong Nor X1-CR.
If you look at my car history I am a real K-man so I am
anxious to see if the Hong Nor can perform at the same level in car handling and
wear of parts.
I will also review the Mega ZX 21 engine provided by Serpent Benelux.
As you may know this car is also for sale as the Jammin X1-CR
(Ofna) and the latest news is that Jamara will do the distribution for this car
in Europe.
In this review I will only use the name Hong Nor X1 CR.
When I got this car in December and started to build it I was
impressed of the quality and precision of all the parts.
I have also red Paco's building review and agree with the notes he made except
for one thing, I didn't have any troubles fitting the 3mm lock nuts into
the front and rear chassis braces.
If the car performs the same as the high quality of the kit I am sure I can
compete with the Kyosho's and the Mugens.
Below you will find the parts I will use to build into the
Hong Nor for racing the Brother-Cup Dutch Champions Ship.
Radio: Futaba 3PK pcm set to ppm
Servo's: Futaba 9451 digital for gas and
steering
Battery pack: 5 cells 1000 mAh nicad Sanyo
Receiver: Futaba ppm
Engine: Mega ZX 21 off-road race
Pipe: Hong-Nor 053 (Provided with the car, not
EFRA approved)
Clutch bell: 13 tooth (Provided with the car)
Filter: Hong-Nor (Provided with the car)
Fuel: 16 % Dynaglow from
Modeltechnics
At first I would like to begin with some ideas which I think are different
for each racer.
Some swear at a specific air filter or engine.
Here are some of mine ideas about an off-road car.
I always use a one-piece servo horn and make it so that it fits to the brake
and gas linkage.
Were possible I 'll use bolts with lock nuts to prevent loosening.
I also make holes into the bumper so I can dissemble the lower arm without
removing the bumper.
This is all is very personal and doesn't mean that the servo horn that came
with the kit is not good enough.
We all have our own ideas.
OK lets start with all the good things, there are to many to name them all and
if you read Paco's building review you will find them all.
There is a minor that's already been taken care of in the factory.
However for those who already have a X1 CR.
The shock body top is to sharp and cuts the pressure top if you tighten it a
little to fast. (see picture below)
All my shock pressure caps were cut. I didn't have any spare so I used Kyosho
caps and tight it softly.
I shall try to remove the sharp edge and use original caps (when I have them)
and see if this solves the problem. I will come back to this issue.
 |
The real problem of the shock bladders
snapping is caused by the shock caps having a extra edge in the shock cap. The left hand one is the modified one were the right hand side one is the wrong one. Together with a extra sharp edge this causes problems. Hong Nor has addressed the problem and new shock caps are as the left ones. Paco Raap |
One other thing is the front shock absorber (the rear is OK) in my opinion
the shock body isn't long enough. (about 5 mm)
If you take a look at the pictures you will see that the shock shaft is to high
and will damage the pressure cap after a while.
The shaft reaches the top in the upper position.
I will ask the factory what they think of this problem.
Regarding the issue mentioned above we got the following information and parts directly from Hong Nor president David Wu.
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As result of the pictures shown above
Hong Nor has made some prototype 4 mm for front and rear longer shock
bodies. The shock shafts stayed the same. When mounted on the car in standard set up there was a little more droop of around 2 mm |
 |
As result the top of the piston/shock shaft is not touching the shock bladder anymore. |
The car performance was OK the first time I drove this car I had the idea I
had this car for years already.
All drivers I spoke had the same idea so the conclusion is that the car performs
well with the set-up from the box.
Another pro is the plastic with cold weather. I have driven the indoor Holland below 0°C and didn't break a thing so the plastic will do fine.
Next week I am going on ski vacation and after that I have two weeks for the
first real race.
I hope I can practice a lot and work on the car set-up to get the best out of
the car.
If you have anything to ask or maybe you have something to tell or tips for me, please feel free to contact me on the adres below.
Next review I hope to tell you more about the car performance and set-up.
Greetttzzzzzzz Jacco
| This car is provided by |  |
Taiwan |