Test and Reviews X1-CRT PRO

This is the building process of a Hong Nor X1-CRT PRO with all pro's and con's found.

Click on the pictures to enlarge

The Performance

How to read performance results

During the season 2006 there were no competitions in Holland for Truggy.

But 2007 is a different story.
The serie of www.truggy.nl is new, the competition is growing with around 40 drivers each race.

Beside myself also Jacco Koch is running some races (see below)

In the spare time I have I try to attend all races when possible.
Race1
The first race I skipped on purpose as this was on the beach.
Novice drivers will like that but it is a killer when it comes to the car as the salty sand is a no good for the mechanics.
 


Race 2
We went to competition number two with a good feeling.
The one time track we raced on was nicely done by the local club that has no fixed track.
After a long day I started as number two in the A-final.
There were two very quick guys out powering the STS 21 Eco engine I had on the chassis ;-).
But with less fuel stops and and no mechanical problems I finally finished third.
I ran the CHAD BRADLEY setup with out any changes that day.
So this is a fully standard CRT PRO.
Car ran predictable and stable.
As said no mechanical problems except for the dusty conditions changing air filters each heat and final.

Race 3
We went to the regular track of MACH ONE in Helmond.
They redid the track from previous year and added a USA style high jump.
Did not changed anything on the car from last race, but only used compressed air to clean it.
Heat I had to help the organization with some counting problems so no result.
Heat2 I started with a grinding noise from the rear and stopped to check the problem.
Removed the rear differential as the sound seem to come from that area but I could not find something suspicious.
Heat 3 I finally managed to get some laps done and was surely not the quickest.
Heat 4 for gave me a better time as I got accustomed to the track.

1/2 Final B is was for me spot number 4 to start from.
Did not do crazy stuff like pushing for a win but took 3 spot to go to the A-main final by cruising.

A-Final start was hectic and at the first corner I was on last position but I tried to stay out of collisions after and make no mistakes on the large triple USA style jump.
Slowly I moved through the field with the STS 21 Eco engine slowly but steady.
Needed less refuel stops then others and finally finished at the third place.

Car performed splendid although we still do not know where the grinding noise comes from.
Once the car fails we will certainly know the reason for it!:-)

Race 4
For personal health reasons I did not drove the indoor race.
However the car was used by one of the ROOKIE lady drivers attending the series and competition for the first time.
She drove the car for the whole day and like the performance very much.
We ran the car with the same set up as lat race as the track was fairly flat with some artificial jumps.
A place in the half final out of 40 drivers was the result she took home.

Jacco won that race as can be read below!
 

Race 5

It was my last race this season with the CRT pro.
The car setup was not different as that of Jacco except I ran 600 in the front and 500 in the rear.
Diffs 7000-15000-100 from front to rear.
Car was still equipped with the STS 21Eco engine which still runs strong.
The tyres were used are the GRP

First qualifying went well and I ran a decent time.
Qualifying two I missed as I forgot to start as I was helping a new bie with his car!
Qualifying three the clutch bearing went shot after 5 laps so a bad time again.
Qualification four was the hit. I ran the quickest time with 5 seconds advantage over the second placed guy.

The 1/2 A final the car again was superb and I quickly gained spots as with the start I was tangled at the first corner heavily.
After my first pit stop disaster struck and a newbie error happened. Right wheel nut came off and I lost 5 laps to replace it.
After returning I lapped all cars 2 times including the leader but it was not enough for a spot in the A final.

Anyway the whole season except for a front bumper in a head to head collision nothing broke on the car.
It prooves the quality of the car.
The car is easy to set up and response well to changes without reacting dramaticly.

Hong Nor is working on a new version of the CRT that will be called the X2 CRT and will be launched March 2008.
Knowing their part quality and experience we are looking for this car to test too in 2008.

Paco Raap
 

Hong Nor X1-CRT Pro testing by Jacco Koch

My name is Jacco Koch and as you may know I am testing the X1-CR for the third year.
If you like you can read the reviews and find some tips and information which can also help you when having problems with your CRT.


Hong Nor provided TWF8 the Truggy for testing and although I don't drive this car as much as the X1-CR I can tell that the CRT is from the same quality, that means very good performance and durability. During testing the CRT I have only broken the front bumper once.
Both cars have similar construction and also the materials that are used are the same.

Building this car gave no problems but there are a view things that I would advice you to purchase when buying this CRT.
The Z-brace and the mud guards they are not in the kit, I think these are two parts that must be at the car.

When using the mud guards it is not possible to access the hexa screw with the standard tool I have made myself a very short tool as you can see at the picture I have also removed some material from the mud guard.
We told the factory about this problem and suggested  to access the hexa screw from the left side the new 2067 pipe has already this system I expect that new made pipes will also have the hexa screws at this side.

I read at starting grid that the steering plate did brake easily when jumping at very high jumps therefore I replaced mine by the heavy duty one which is available as an option part however the standard one that came of was not broken.
I have also replaced the mid diff mount for the aluminium option mount this is more for easy maintenance although the standard one will do very well.
Big advantage is that brake throw can be lowered with consistent brake result, which results in longer servo life time. Also changing the diff is easier as the complete upper mount stays assembled when taking the diff out.

The last part I replaced is the servo saver there is nothing wrong with the standard one, I have only done this for easy access.
.

Sometimes I make small modifications myself also at my CRT I have done a view, maybe if you like you can use them at your CRT.
Above in the right picture you can see that I have removed some material from the bumper, now it is possible to remove the hinge pin without removing the bumper very easy for maintenance or quick replacement.
In the picture below you can see a small hexa screw which is made into the hinge pin holder, just drill a 3.2mm hole and make 4 mm threat in it.
This will prevent the shaft moving into the hinge pin holder, now only the plastic arm will have wear.
I have also done this at the front hinge pin holder.

In the right picture you see my fuel tank I have glued the splash guard to the tank with fuel resistance glue.
(I use the glue for repairing the body)
It is necessary to remove some material from the splash guard.
Once done it is very easy for maintenance.

Performance

I have used a Chad Bradly set-up you can find it at the Jammin web-site.
Last year I have participated one of the www.truggy.nl races it was the first year that this competition was held here in Holland.
Drivers level was not very high and it was very easy for me to win one of their races.

However this year the competition is a lot harder, drivers are a lot better and also some German drivers are present at the truggy.nl races.
Unfortunately I can not join all the truggy races but last race I had time to participate.
Last year I used one of my buggy engines but for this year I had bought a new R&B TM928 engine.
Together with the new HN .28 exhaust pipe performance was great however idle speed gave a lot of trouble when the engine was cold everything was perfect only after driving 5 minutes idle speed was much to high as if the engine found some leaking air.
When trying to set idle speed well the engine flamed out constantly it made me desperate and I decided to change the engine for an old R&B WS7 II.
This engine had not much bottom power but I did not have a better engine at that moment.
During the half final it was clear that difference was very small and making a mistake could cost you 2 or 3 places.
Making one mistake in this final brought me 3e place, which was good enough for the final.

I did not expect to much and didn't start this final expecting it to win my lap times were a view tenth slower than most drivers due to bottom power. However during this  final I did not make one mistake the car performed very well and was very easy to drive and so I ended this day at the first place after a very exiting final.

I would like to thank Hong Nor for their great support (Buggy and Truggy)

If you have any questions about buggy or truggy please feel free to sent me a mail and I will response as soon as possible.

jacco@brothercup.com

Grtzzzz Jacco

Since September 2007 the X1-CRT is updated and is called the X1X-CRT.
Standard you now get as (X)tra

* 16 mm Super Bore Shocks
* Top loading servo saver
* High Downforce wing

Info about the 16 mm super bore shocks

The difference between the 16 mm super bores Truggy springs Grey and Blues are:
Grey front is stiffer than the Blue front
Grey rear is softer than the Blue rear
(might seem weird its like that, but there is a reason for it).

General setup from Chad Bradley > factory driver Jammin USA

X1X CRT Truggy Settings (16mm shocks) 
 
Front
Spring..............Blue
Piston..............1.4 6 hole
Oil.................45 Losi oil
Shock end...........Short
Shock Pos...........Inner hole on arm, upper mid on tower
Down Travel.........
Front Kick..........A block (upper and lower)
Camber pos..........mid hole on tower
Camber..............-2
Sway Bar............2.5mm, 0mm preload
Ride height..........Arms level
Ackerman............Back hole
Toe out.............1-2 degree
Brace...............Aluminum
Top Plate...........5mm alum
Diff................10,000
 
Center
Diff................20,000
Brakes..............Stock, Fiberglas
Z brace.............yes
 
Rear
Spring..............Blue
Piston..............1.4 6 hole
Oil.................35 Losi oil
Shock end...........Long
Shock Pos...........outer hole on arm, lower mid on tower
Down Travel.........
Ride height..........arms slightly above level
Anti squat...........stock, 2.5
Camber pos..........hole furthest away from wheel on alum hub, inner 
mid. hole on tower
Camber..............3 degree
Toe in..............2.5 degree
Hub Pos.............Lower hinge pin hole
Wheel Base..........*Hub spaced toward the rear (long car)
Sway Bar............*2.8, 5mm preload
Brace...............Aluminum
Diff................3000
 
Clutch..............1.1 alum silver shoes
Gearing.............13/stock spur
Servos..............Airtronics 359
Battery.............HT lipo w/7v regulator
Tires...............PL. LPR rims/HoleShots
 
Options Parts...
*Lunsford TiRods (In X1X CRT kit)
*Z Brace (not sure if its in the X1X kit)
*Aluminum Braces (In X1X CRT kit)
New Style 1 piece engine mount
Prototype plastic center diff mount (available soon)
Light Outdrives
Aluminum diff Cross Pins
New style conical and pinion (In X1X CRT kit)
*Aluminum Rear Hubs
Graphite Towers (not sure if it will be sold, maybe?)
New Servo Save steering (Not sure in the X1X Kit)
Vented clutch bell
 
*= Parts I recommend
 
Option settings
If you want more strait line traction (or on throttle traction) These 
changes to the above setup will help (these are the most noticeable 
changes to the setup)....
1. Stand the rear shocks out one hole on the tower
2. 3 degree rear toe
3. Move the rear hubs forward
4. Move the inner rear camber link to a higher hole on the tower
5. Move the rear camber link to a longer position on the hub
 
If you want the truck not to squat so much in the rear while on 
throttle (this can help achieve more on power steering too)
1. 3 degree rear anti squat
2. limit the front droop some
3. Upper rear hinge position on rear hub (note: that the rear ride 
height will have to be adjusted, as well as rear droop, and possibly 
camber).
4. stiffer rear spring, however the blue is the stiffest spring offered 
by Hong Nor, if you want you can cut 1-2 coils off the spring to make it 
stiffer but I don't recommend it, unless you have backups, I would do 
other changes first).
 
Front springs Super Bore 16 mm
 
Brand partnumber color K value N/mm status testdate comment
Hong Nor #389A Yellow 0,6433 X1X-CR 1-3-2008 Super Bore 16 mm
Hong Nor #389B White 0,7199 X1X-CR 1-3-2008 Super Bore 16 mm
Hong Nor #389C Silver 0,7584 X1X-CR 1-3-2008 Super Bore 16 mm
Hong Nor #390A Blue 0,8139 X1X-CRT 8-1-2008 Super Bore 16 mm
Hong Nor #390B Gray 0,8482 X2-CRT PRO 8-1-2008 Super Bore 16 mm
 
Rear springs Super Bore 16 mm
 
Brand partnumber color K value N/mm status testdate comment
Hong Nor #389A Yellow 0,5336 X1X-CR 1-3-2008 Super Bore 16 mm
Hong Nor #389B White 0,5883 X1X-CR 1-3-2008 Super Bore 16 mm
Hong Nor #389C Silver 0,6017 X1X-CR 1-3-2008 Super Bore 16 mm
Hong Nor #390B Gray 0,6095 X2-CRT PRO 8-1-2008 Super Bore 16 mm
Hong Nor #390A Blue 0,667 X1X-CRT 8-1-2008 Super Bore 16 mm
 

Blue Front and Rear springs are mend for the X1X truck
Grey Front and Rear springs will be used for the  X2 Truck, when its 
available in 2008.
 
The weight distribution (front to rear) is different between the X1X 
and  X2 Truck, that's why colour scheme is a little weird and we want to 
keep the same colour springs on the front and rear that work the best 
for each truck.
 
We made the following simple do it yourself modification to the standard brake system.
The black plastic parts on top of the center brace prevent the brake actuators to go to braking position when the throttle is applied.
They are normally used to shim the steering servo.
 
As both brake actuators are on the upper part of the center deck they are easier to adjust.

All parts used are coming in the X1-CRT PRO kit.

I drilled:
2 x 1.5 mm in the large plastic block on top of the servo arm to fit the  2 mm thread of the brake rods.
1 x 3 mm for the rotation point of the block to connect it to the servo arm.

As there is enough space under the body this will only work with the X1-CRT or X2-CRT.
 
 

 

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