Test and Reviews

X2-CRB PRO

PART 1

We are building this fully to the user manual.
In the section tips & tricks we will show you what we have changed and most of all "WHY".

We are not going to show you every single step of the building as we have done with previous reviews.
The manual is clear enough and in cases it is not we will clarify it.
Through the building we will also highlight the changes from the previous X1 versions.

RED CODED TEXT= need attention from the factory
BLUE CODED TEXT= Positive points
MAGENTA CODED TEXT= point of attention during building

	All the parts to build one differential. This shows the front/rear version. Nothing has changed from previous X1 models except for an extra shim washer, more about that later. HN differentials from the X1 series have proofed to be reliable and bombproof.
	The 10 tooth pinion and 45 tooth crown gear are of a helicoidally type and have already proofed their strength in the X2 CRT truggy.
	Where we need to put some lubricant we use EUREKA PRO. In this case the differential outputs do get a tiny amount of this lubricant in the groove. It is no GREASE and no OIL. It is a polymeric synthetic lubricant. It is worth the cost to buy this lubricant.
	The lock pin need to be pushed from the outside inwards.
	Then close the hole with a 4 mm setscrew. Turn it in at a straight angle.
	With the previous X1 models only one shim washer was placed behind the satellite gears. With all X2 models 2 shim washers need to be placed. You can perform this also for the X1 models. The cross pins are hard anodized lightweight aluminum ones. The satellites are from casted aluminum but can handle the job nicely. There are machined versions too available in case you need them.
	Fill the differential first with the manual suggested and provided oil so you have a starting point. Some people already start to add other oils without knowing the characteristics of the car.
	80% filled as the manual now clearly describe how much this really is. Do not put more oil in, as this will be pressed out of the differential and will cause oil leakage.
	One of the differentials (front) filled and ready. The drive outputs are the lightweight version and come as standard. For easy recognition we use CRD oil numbers decals.
	The front and rear center drive outputs are also a lightweight version. We advise to use green (max strength) thread lock to secure the 4 mm set screw.
	Place the center drive output like this by pressing the 10 tooth pinion from the inside of the differential housing. This ensures there is no play on the pinion.
	To adjust the gear meshing pinion crown gear you can add these shim washers. Start with 2 at both side. Always use 4 in total for left and right side.
	Place the differential (in the picture the front version) in the differential gear box making sure the shim washers are not deformed and fit correctly.
	Close up the gearbox and check for the play in the pinion and crown gear. A gearbox that is open will feel different then when fully closed and so may have different meshing. If the meshing is not OK open the gearbox and move one of the shim washers to the opposite side and check again after the gearbox is fully closed. Try to obtain as less possible friction but without play. The lower front hinge pin holder is a T6-7075 version.
	The kit comes with the option part CNC T6-7075 aluminum lower front B block  as standard. The plastic version is with the kit too in case you like to loose a few grams. The upper B block part does not comes as CNC version as standard but as a molded version. In normal race conditions this is sufficient and saves weight. We would have liked a 3 mm set screw to lock the hinge pins in this lower B block from rotating and wearing out the front hinge pin holder.

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This car is provided by

Taiwan

The servo's are provided by

The Netherlands

The decals are provided by

The Netherlands