Test and Reviews X2-CRB PRO

This is the building process of a Hong Nor X2-CRB PRO with all pro's and con's found.

PART 7

RED CODED TEXT= need attention from the factory
BLUE CODED TEXT= Positive points
MAGENTA CODED TEXT= point of attention during building

The wide and low fuel tank has been taken over from the X1 serie cars. You still have to mount the fuel nipple. Make sure you thread it in at a straight angle.
The fuel tank has a fuel drain for spilled fuel but does not incorporate the new features we see at the X2 CRT version where fuel line clips and a onboard molded splash guard is standard. Do we miss it for racing? No not really, but it would have been nice.
The fuel tank is resting on a 3 mm silicone O-ring.
Make sure the screw is not fully tightened. The fuel tank should just wobble a little on the fuel tank post.
The fuel tank is resting on a 3 mm silicone O-ring.
Make sure the screw is not fully tightened. The fuel tank should just wobble a little on the fuel tank post.
The European Hong Nor kits come with a EFRA approved 2027 INLINE system muffler.
The pressure nipple is nicely turned inwards so it will not conflict with the low height of the body.
This pipe still has the screw to fix the muffler to the muffler stay at the front. All new versions pipes produced by Hong Nor have the screw more easily accessible from the left side of the car.
You need to take off some material from the spalsh guard to get the fuel tank under the splash guard.
Use a sharp hobby knife or high speed tool to take away the material at he right place.
The kit comes with no compromise standard reliable scissors spring clutch system.

1.0 and 1.1 MM springs are included.

The vented 17 tooth clutch bell is hard coated and heat treated.
Fit the cone that comes with the car on the shaft and press it on until it hits the inners shield of the engine front bearing.
Pull the crankshaft to make sure there is no play while pressing the cone on.
Place the flywheel and tight the flywheel nut by hand force firmly.
In case of doubt you can use some red colored (low strength) thread lock on the inside of the nut.
Do not forget the place the small washers on the flywheel pins before mounting the shoes.
The washers prevent if and edge appears on the shoes due to wear during use, it still can rotate freely.
To mount the last shoe and spring use a L shape hexagon tool to keep the shoe open so the tip of the spring can easily slide into the groove of the flywheel nut.
Place a 5 x 9 x0.3 mm shim washer.
Place the clutch bell with the bearings and check if the tip of the crankshaft protrudes the front clutch bell ball bearing.
In our case when we used the R&B S7LG it did not! We looked in our spare parts and found an other same type flywheel from Hong Nor with some other dimension of the cone hole that was fitting better.
We informed the Hong Nor factory about this and they are working on it.
More about that later. If the shaft is to short, lengthen up the crankshaft by adding 3 x 5 x 1 mm washers inside the front bearing.
Here the picture with the other flywheel.
The tip of the crankshaft should protrude just a little through the front bearing  inner shield.
Metal will expand if it gets warm. If there is no play at the tip of the crank shaft the clutch system will fry itself.
When the last washer and 3 mm hexagon screw are placed and tightened make sure the clutch bell in total can move for about 0.5 to 1 mm  on the crankshaft.
The kit comes with 3 mm spring washers to mount the engine to the machines T6-7075 engine mounts.
The muffler stay is the simple L-shape version.
If you buy other Hong Nor manufactured pipes the spring wire muffler stay is included with the pipe.
The spring wire muffler stay is also available as option part.
We advise to mount and use the spring wire version right away.
The fuel tank and engine mounted to the chassis.

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This car is provided by  Taiwan
The servo's are provided by

The Netherlands

The decals are provided by

The Netherlands

 

 

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