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Test and Reviews |  |
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Test and Reviews | |
Click on the pictures to enlarge
STEP 11
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Take bag 11.1and open it. |
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The kit comes with multiple size molded shock
pistons. They have straight and conical holes. At this moment of writing Xray has modified the shock pistons to be stronger and made them in white color for more information click here. So your kit might have white colored pistons instead that are harder to break when shock absorber down travel is set incorrectly |
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Differentiation between straight and conical
holes is done by the extra dot molded in the piston. Take of the plastic burs at the edge of the pistons. |
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Equip the 3.5 mm shock shaft with a 2.5 mm washer. |
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Fit the 1.5 mm straight piston as shown. |
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Fit by hand force the 3 mm lock nut. |
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Take the kit supplied wrench and a small pliers
and place the pliers only on the thread at the end of the shock shaft. Tighten the 3 mm lock nut. If you are afraid to damage the thread use a piece of cloth in between the brackets of the pliers. Never use any type of tool at the smooth surface of the shock shaft! |
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The hard coated shock body needs to be equipped
with the shown parts from left to right. correct order is 3.5 mm Silicone O-ring -plastic washer - 3.5 mm Silicone O-ring - plastic washer -retainer clip. Before placing the parts fit a drop of silicon oil in the bottom part of the shock body so the parts will slide in smoothly. |
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The parts mounted in the bottom of the shock
body except the retaining clip. Make sure the parts are pressed fully inwards. |
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Place the retaining clip with the open end at
first in the groove of the shock body as shown. With the tip of the 2 mm hexagon toll press the retaining clip inside the groove of the shock body. Take care that the retaining clip might jump away so press a finger on the retaining clip while pushing the bended end inwards. There is a spare retaining clip in bag 13.0!!! |
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The retaining clip correctly mounted in the groove of the shock body. |
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Place the shock body gently through the bottom of the shock body. |
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Place by hand force the shock ball end |
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Take a 4 way mini wrench and use the 3 mm part to fit on the 3 mm lock nut at the top of the shock shaft. |
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Turn by using a 2 mm hexagon tool the shock
ball end on the shafts thread. |
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Do this exactly to the point where the thread stops and goes further in the smooth surface |
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Extract the shock shaft and feel for free motion. |
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The shock cap is build from three parts. Watch the red marked spots that should match when mounted. |
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Slide the black plastic shock cap into the aluminum
nut and align the notch and the hole. Then fit the black silicone bladder fully into the inside of the shock cap with the round side pointing outwards. |
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Take two rims and place the shock body in the center of it. |
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The kit comes with 350 W silicone oil to be
used for front and rear shocks. It is enough to fill 4 shocks. If this W rating is the same as the rating used by Kyosho or Mugen Cps we do not know yet. Xray cant confirm this either!! If you are no sure about the viscosity of other manufacturers stay with the shock oil of one company. |
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Fill the shock just 1 mm under the edge of the shock body. |
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Slowly move the shock shaft up and down to
release the air bubbles from the oil. Move your head away while slowly moving the shock shaft up and down. |
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If there are still air bubbles let them rise to the surface by placing the shock body for a while on the two stapled rims. |
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After a few minutes check for air bubbles by slowly moving the shock shaft up and down. |
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If there are still air bubbles let them rise
again to the surface. Make sure the shock oil level is just 1 mm under the edge. |
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Place the assembled shock cap on the thread and turn it until the bleeding hole is level with the shock body thread. |
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Take a piece of old clothing or paper towel
and place it around the shock body. Press the shock shaft slowly fully inwards. Now tight the shock cap fully by hand force only. Excessive oil will leave the bleeding hole and that is correct.. |
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Slowly move the shock shaft up and down to
check the working of the shock absorber. When releasing the shock shaft after pushing it in it should not rebound more as the picture shows. If it does the shock is not correctly assembled and filled. Recheck the above mentioned steps again. |
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Slide the cover boot over the shock shaft. The shock boot has already a small hole inside to compensate for the air inside. |
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Slide the top ring on the shock body. |
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Slide the spring on the shock body. Bag 13 also contains dark blue colored springs with firmer rating that can be mounted. We opted for the manual suggested spring light blue springs. Click here to see the value of these springs. |
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Extend the shock shaft and compress the
spring and slide the bottom spring retainer on the shock ball end. Release the shock and check for correct fitting. |
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Do same steps for the other front shock
absorber. The two front shock absorbers ready. |
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Take bag 11.2 and open it. Perform the same steps as with the front shocks. We missed 1 silicone O-ring for the complete the rear shock in the bag. We received a replacement O-ring from The Border online |
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The four shock absorbers ready to mount. |
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The ride height clips that we are using in a later stage to be mounted. |
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Nice the shock have 3.5 mm
shafts and the shock bodies are hard coated. The bleeding hole makes it easy to assemble 4 shocks with same zero rebound characteristics. Shame we missed one O-ring in the bag for the rear shock absorber. |
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