You just purchased a brand new engine!

As these engine are some technical wonders we have to take care we can get the best out of it.

Which items are also important to prepare a good and reliable engine?

Engine cleaning
Carburator
Airfilter
Clutch

Before you can use an engine we have some tips you might follow.
First read the manual that comes with the engine. There might be important things mentioned that are different from what is described here.
The section below can be used for 95% of building engines. In some cases the pictures might differ from your situation.

Make sure the place your are working on is dust and moisture free. Use and old but clean towel.

Taking the engine apart and cleaning
	For this sequence we use a brand-new CMB EVO 3 rally game engine provided by Eck-Tec. Your engine might look different but in general all steps are identical. This sequence can also be used for cleaning used engines!
	First start to remove the carburator if this is on the engine. Do not change any setting of the needles on the carburator.
	Remove the coolinghead and/or glowplug button with a good fitting tool.
	Take care that some thin brass or aluminum washers are in between the coolinghead and/or glowplug button. You need them when reassembling the engine.
	The sleeve is prevented from rotating in the crankcase with a small pin and a groove in the sleeve. Be sure when refitting the sleeve the pin and the groove match at the spot the white line shows.
	Put the piston in the highest position while you turn the cranckshaft by hand. If the sleeve is now too pushed upwards that is OK.
	Remove the screws from the rear cover of the crankcase.
	Remove the rear cover.  Remember when reassembling this rear cover the groove must be installed upwards!
	If the sleeve can now be removed by hand pull it out of the crankcase. If the sleeve stays in the crankcase put the piston in the lowest position and put a zip-ty in between the exhaust port. Now turn by hand the cranckshaft so the piston moves upwards. The sleeve will automatically be pushed upwards.
	If the sleeve can now be removed by hand pull it out of the crankcase.  If you can not remove it by hand tip of a small screwdriver  in between the crankcase and the sleeve at the white marked spot.
	Leave the piston in its top position and remove the conrod from the wrist pin. Place a zip ty around the bottom part of the conrod and gently pull the conrod from the wrist pin. In some cases with new engines the fitting is so tight you can not remove the conrod from the wrist pin even with the zip-ty.  Mount the flywheel temporarily and use the zip-ty and move the flwyheel left/right in very small steps and pull the zip-ty. Now if possible take the cranckshaft out of the crankcase.
	Flush the engine and all parts (except the carburator) with pure methanol and check for metal debris or other parts. Reassemble the engine in reversed order putting a few drops of after run oil (no silicone or oil with additives) on the parts. Make sure all screws are tightened but not over tightened so the thread strips. Fit a glowplug in the coolinghead.
Mounting the carburator
	Place the carburator in the crankcase if needed with some high temperature silicone sealant.  Some brands have one or more O-rings around the throat and in the crankcase and sealant would not be necessary.  But if you like to be sure you can use some extra sealant.  Take the carburator and loosen up the fuel nipple. Use an appropriate wrench 7 mm and turn it 1 full turn anti clock wise.
	Set the nipple in correct position and tight the top part clock wise. Take care not to over tighten the part. Adjust the carburator slide ball to its correct position according to the cars manual.
If you trust your new engine comes clean, the steps above can be skipped
More about the carburators and settings can be found here
	Airfilter fitting
	Slide the air filter on to the air filter holder. Place the end cap and secure the red marked spot with a 3 x 10 mm counter sunk self tapping screw.
	Fit the air filter connector onto the carburator neck.
	Secure the air filter holder with a zip ty.
More about airfilters and maintenance can be found here
	Clutch fitting
	Take the flywheel cone that comes with the engine or with the car kit and slide it as far as possible on the cranckshaft until it touches the front engine bearing. Some engines might need between the front engine bearing and the flywheel cone some shim washers. Read the car manual for that.
	Fit the flywheel and secure it with the flywheel nut.
	To be sure the flywheel is securely tightened to the cranck shaft use these tools and secure the flywheel nut firmly. You might use some medium strength thread lock.
	Take a clutch shoe and place a clutch spring inside the clutch shoe.
	Slide the clutch shoe over the flywheel pin until the short side of the clutch spring touches the top of the flywheel nut. Then move with a small screw driver tip the short side of the clutch spring into the groove of the flywheel nut while pressing down the clutch shoe. Do the same for the second clutch shoe.
	Now place a 2.5 mm hexagon tool in between the second shoe so it stays open and the third clutch shoe can be mounted easily.
	Slide the third clutch shoe over the flywheel pin until the short side of the clutch spring touches the top of the flywheel nut. Then move with a small screw driver tip the short side of the clutch spring into the groove of the flywheel nut while pressing down the clutch shoe.
	Slide one 5x8x0.2 mm shim washer over the cranck shaft.
	Slide a 5x10x4 mm ball bearing over the cranck shaft.
	Fit a 5x10x4 mm ball bearing in the front of the clutch bell.
	Slide the clutch bell on the cranck shaft.
	Slide first one 5x8x0,2 shim washer over the cranck shaft. Depending on the length of the flywheel and clutch bell you might need more 5x8 mm shim washers. Secure the cranck shaft with a 3x8x1 mm washer a 3x6 mm hexagon screw. Do not tight it firmly yet!
	Check if the clutch bell can be moved 0,5 mm in the direction of the red arrow. If this is not the case remove one or more 5x8x0.2 mm shim washers and try again. If there is to much play add some extra 5x8x0.2 mm shim washers. If the play is OK tight the 3x6 mm hexagon screw in the tip of the cranck shaft firmly with a 2 mm hexagon tool. Do not use thread lock on this screw!
	In the next step we have to mount the engine to the engine blocks. We advise you to use 3 mm spring washers as the picture shows under each 3x10 mm to be sure the screws do not loosen by vibrations. We advise not to use thread lock on the 3x10 mm hexagon screws!
	Fit the header with a spring at both sides. Place the coupler and muffler.
	Secure the coupler with zip-ties.
More about clutches and maintenance can be found here