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TIP PAGE 1 |
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TIP PAGE 1 |
TIP 1:
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Use the spring from a ball-point pencil and cut this
spring in 4 equal small pieces with 2 or 3 windings. Place the springs between the brake pads on the mounting screw. This prevents the brake disks from dragging when in neutral or full power position of the throttle servo. |
TIP 2:
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Make from a piece that is left over from your lexan body a sheet that will be placed next to the fueltank and covering the front brake disk.. So when fuel is spilt during quick pits-stops, the brake disks and pads stay clean and brake fading is prevented. |
TIP 3:
! Never ! use thread lock on:
* the screws that fix the coolinghead of the engine or any other
screws from the engine itself!
* small hexagon (allenhead) set-screws where you have to use 1.5
m/m to 2.0 m/m L-shape hexagon tools!
* the four aluminum wheel nuts!
* aluminum to aluminum or aluminum to steel parts or
connections
TIP 4:
Use thread lock on every other metal to metal connection.
"screw lock" for easy binding normally colored RED
"nut lock" for normal binding normally colored BLUE
"stud lock" for heavy binding normally colored GREEN.
!Use this only on drive joints and drive universal hexagon
screws!
Colors may vary from brand to brand and type!
TIP 5:
If you want to loosen a thread lock fitted connection specially when "stud lock" is applied, use a small heating tool
(watch the plastic). When the metal parts are warm the thread
lock will become weakened and the screws will come loose easily.
TIP 6:
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To prevent metal to metal wear you can use a special
purpose grease. This MoS² (Molibdeen Sulfide) grease is specially designed to reduce wear on metal surfaces and gives a good lubrication. You can use it on universals, pignon/crown gear and main/clutch gear combinations. The grease is produced by OKS in Germany and is called "OKS 220" for a small 50 gram tube or as "OKS 221" for an 400 ml spraycan. Although the grease is black it does not contain carbon particles, like some Molykote products! This grease is race proven and is available by the OKS distributor in your local country. For an address in your country please look at the OKS site. |
TIP 7:
The break-inn period
is 80% the key for a good running engine and a long lifetime. Try
to stay below all maximum settings of the engine performance. If
you are just running your car for fun, then be sure that the
engine is running always at a rich setting. Try to warm
up the engine for 2 minutes minimum by
running the car at medium speed (rpm's) before
asking the maximum power from your engine.
TIP 8:
When your engine was running fine before and it does not want to
start, then this is the golden rule. Open the
throttle fully. Start the engine without connecting a glowplug
ignitor. Lift the car and then close the throttle. Now put the glow igniter on and the engine should start, easily. If not, check
for fuel, defective glow-plug or whatever. But do not directly
change the needle settings. Only minor changes (all within a 1/2
turn) could be needed if the external circumstances are changed.
A good running engine, does not need frequent needle changes.
TIP 9:
Always check the engine temperature frequently,
by putting some spit on your finger and then on
the cooling head. If it does not evaporate the engine temperature is below 100 °C. You may close the high speed needle a
little if
required. If it stays for 3 to 4 seconds the temperature is OK.
If it evaporate direct, then open the high speed needle until the temperature goes down. An engine temperature system is a nice
feature and can prevent premature engine failure due to
overheating.
TIP 10:
After using your engine these are the things to do:
Remove all fuel in the engine and carburator by taking off the fuel line and let the engine run
until it stops. Then put some after run oil in the engine and run the motor for 3 seconds on the
starter box so the oil is spread inside the engine well. This will
prevent rust building up inside the engine if not used for a long period.
TIP 11:
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Cover the underside of your chassis with 3M all weather auto adhesive vinyl, this not only protects your chassis from scratches (some of them) but help you keep loose screws in place. The price in Singapore for a yard of the adhesive is U$ 10 in a variety of colors. Can be removed easily when destroyed. |
TIP 12:
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For those people who are receiving a lot of cd's
without use do not throw them away but recycle! Glue 4 of them together. And use them as camber/caster disks for measuring. |
TIP 13:
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Never, never use the switch harness that comes with the radio control equipment. The best way to supply power to the receiver and servos is to use no switch at all. Races haven proven that they can have a defect after a while. Even switches with rubber covers are not advisable. From race experience in Holland and France the Multiplex battery connecters as shown at the left are a good choice for power connection instead of a switch. The contacts are well covered and the leads and connector housings are heavy duty. For switching on the receiver just connect the connectors and the other way around. This also eases up the way of charging the battery pack as the charging cable can be connected direct to the battery pack. |
TIP 14:
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Tip by Jason
Fritton I came up with a simple way of mounting a return spring on a Nova Rossi type engine. It uses a Losi GTX/NXT return spring kit and you have to flip the carb fixing assembly around the other way. I have also cut the spring and stretched it a little to make the tension just right. |
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For Kyosho drivers this is an important tip! The pins that are securing the lower connection points of the shock absorbers in the suspension arms are coming out slowly and might be lost during racing!. To
prevent this, mark the place where the small |
TIP 16:
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For almost every buggy engine used these days, it is best to engage a little later, because of the higher rev's these engines can produce. This will give more bottom power. Modify the shoes as showed below by try and error method. Original Serpent shoes need maximum one hole as they are already lightened from the factory. Mugen and Kyosho need to be modified with one or two holes depending of the weight and engine performance. There for if the clutch shoes are too heavy just drill one or two small holes with a +/- 3 m/m diameter at the end of each shoe (see the marked spots). This will make them lighter and the clutch will engage later. |
TIP 17:
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Never remove the flywheel by slamming with a object on the rear of the flywheel. This will cause puts in the main bearingseatings and cause premature main bearing failure. The right way to remove the flywheel is to place the rear of the flywheel on a solid object and placing a piece of wood or nylon on top of the cranckshaft. Then you may hit the wood or nylon without damaging the bearings. Or use a special pulley-puller tool as shown in the picture to pull off the flywheel from the cranck-shaft. Cost +/- 3.00 $. Thanks to Ruenjo Lu for sending the picture of this car battery terminal remove tool. |
TIP 18:
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For those who do not like to replace their Mugen
MBX-4 shock absorber caps often because of the metal to
metal connection causing play, this mod will save you
money! Remove the aluminum spacer and put the ball only
on the screw instead, with the flat surface to the shock
tower. Fit a piece of silicone tube of 6 m/m long and a
diameter of 2 x 6 m/m inside the shockcap eye without
play and secure both ends with a thin 3 m/m washer. I use
BLUELINE silicone fuel tube but every other will do too.
Put a drop of silicone oil on the outside of the tube to
make it rotate smoother. Works on front and rear. Also
works on Kyosho shocks but you need to use slightly
smaller silicone tube. Replace the silicone tube every race to be sure it is not broken due to the pressure. Prepare some spare silicone bushings incase of a
broken one. Costs nearly nothing on year base! Paco Raap |
TIP 19:
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This simple tip is from Cliff Hudson from U.S.A. for
the Mugen MBX-4(RR). A original rear brace for the Mugen MBX-4(RR) cost you about 30 $, but you can make a stiffer one for only 7 $. Use the battery brace from Associated B3, the large hole needs to be drilled out and use a motor post extension from the Losi NXT kit as a bushing, this end connects on top of the center diff brace, remove one of the pan head screws and replace with long hex bolt removed from existing brace. The other end, just cut to length, drilled a hole through it and bolted it with existing rear brace bolt at mount on rear tower..... you want believe how much stiffer this made the chassis. |
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The custom made Associated B3 battery brace modified to be used with the Mugen MBX-4(RR). |
